Industry Focus: We talk to the Infamous CATHERINE CONDELL
Frankly speaking, Catherine Condell is Ireland’s most sought after fashion stylist and show producer. Having spent over 30 years working in the fashion industry, originally as a display artist for stores such as Switzers and Hickeys and then spending nigh on 16 years working ‘in house’ producing shows for Brown Thomas, Catherine’s name fast became synonymous with high end styling. Major fashion show production takes up most of Catherine’s time these days. Having styled the impressive ‘Off the Rails Live’ shows in the RDS for many years, as well as The Gloss – Look the Business’ events, the M&S shows each season and many high end, intimate designer salon shows, Catherine is rather like the deity of the Irish fashion industry; the superwoman of show production, the leading lady of styling. Her attention to detail and her dedication to deliver perfection is what sets’ Condell apart from all the others. We caught up with Catherine to delve a little into her very interesting career. (pic: 'Clowning Around' for IMAGE 2010)
Q: Catherine, what was it that originally steered you towards the fashion industry? Were you always passionate about it?
A: When I was in school I always wanted to be a window dresser.... and that's exactly where I started! 1975 in Hickey's fabrics until 1979... then I got a job in Switzer's Henry Street, working with 'real' fashion. In 1983 I moved to the old Brown Thomas (where M&S is now) and I worked very happily with BT's until 1999 and then went freelance. Being a display artist is almost the same job as styling, though working with mannequins as opposed to 'live' models.
I also had a passion for fashion magazines and I used to gaze in wonder at the editorials thinking "imagine someone gets to put all of this together ...as a job! ..... AND gets paid for it!"
My Dad also used treat me occasionally to Vogue magazine... which at the time was amazing because I used to think it was so expensive! I still have tear sheets from some of the original 70's issues... and they happen to be the work of my utter heroine Grace Coddington. I also loved the spreads in British Marie Claire by fashion editor Debbie Mason.
Q: In terms of a specific direction, was show production something you were aiming towards or was that something that grew organically from your situation?
A: Show production definitely grew from my situation. When I joined the Brown Thomas display team in '83 I was delighted to act as a 'runner' for the person who used to put the shows together but she left the business rather suddenly and I found myself thrown in the deep end of putting together shows and shoots.... the word "Stylist" hadn't even been heard of... I was a 'fashion co ordinator'! I used to work very closely with my display boss Bill Simpson and we produced the shows together.... after a few years he became Creative Director and I began to take on all of the production and styling work. It was quite a unique position, but it was brilliant and it enabled me to take everything from scratch... which I still do to this day.Q: Working with Brown Thomas for so long must have been a fantastic experience in terms of meeting with industry insiders, working with some of the biggest names in fashion and so on. What were the ultimate highlights for you during that period?
A: I adored my time in Brown Thomas. I used to travel with the buyers to Paris, Milan and London Fashion Weeks and go to the shows and some of the buying appointments.
Of those times my favorites were Alexander Mc Queen's first show (plus a few after that) .... and John Galliano and Jean Paul Gaultier's shows in Paris... all three of those were so inspirational to me in terms of staging, production, music, styling... everything! There were many others too, Sonia Rykiel, Kenzo, Helmut Lang lots & lots that were so exciting to be at. The early days at Brown Thomas also meant working for A Wear and therefore working with John Rocha for the launch of his label Chinatown... and all the subsequent shows, including a few in London.
But I guess the ultimate highlight has to be the Supermodel Shows at the Point Depot in 1996, 2000 & 2003.... those shows were my babies! Huge charity shows for Ali Hewson's 'Children of Chernobyl' and Caroline Desmond's 'ISPCC' . They went out live on TV, which was rather daunting, but I got to work with amazing people... Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Yasmin Le Bon, Eva Herzigova, Helena Christensen, Karen Mulder, Erin O Connor, Alek Wek , Heidi Klum, Jasmine Guiness ...the list goes on & on. We had brilliant people presenting and modeling, Dawn French, Lisa Stansfield, The Edge, Larry Mullen, Chris Evans, Simon Le Bon, Gavin Friday.. again the list goes on! I had an amazing team around me .... they were monumental shows to put on dealing with everything.... but we did it and it was hugely satisfying and rewarding (Naomi Campbell / Brown Thomas Supermodel Show at The Point 1996)
(Frida Kahlo for Image 1999)
Q: Moving between in house styling, show production, TV wardrobe deparments, commercial styling, styling editorial shoots and so on your job is hugely varied. Is show production the area in which you are most at home or do you love most things you put your hand to?
A: The styling part is the core of it all for me; producing the shows and co ordinating the shoots all seem a natural progression for me. I love to deliver the finished product.
I have pictures in my head and I try to deliver them.... both in shows and shoots. I enjoy both equally.... and it's lovely to be able to move from one to another. No two days are the same.... and no two jobs are the same.
Q: When it comes to styling shows, in the case of big mainstream brands etc, you presumably have to be somewhat trend driven and work within the brand parameters - unlike in editorial shoots where you may have more creative licence. Do you ever find this to be a negative thing for you personally / creatively when you are putting together a show?
A: Absolutely not. It's great to work with brands and work to their brief etc. You need to be at the top of your game & do your homework on trends in order to understand what they need....
But the creative satisfaction does come from working on shows that give me a licence to put it together in my way....thankfully I have clients who trust me to do that.
And ultimately working on magazine editorial spreads allows me to bring some of my vision to life. I like to take a trend and do my own thing with it. It's all too easy and boring to imitate huge ad campaigns. I want to look back at my work and still love it as much as I did when pulling it all together. I'm really not interested in shooting anything or any trend I don't like.
Q: Over the past few years a huge amount of ‘stylists’ and ‘image consultants’ have spilled onto the scene, with some stylists working in the editorial and fashion show sector like yourself and others doing consultancy, following in the footsteps of Trinny and Susannah and Gok etc. Do you feel this is a positive thing for the industry or is it now a somewhat saturated area?
A: Beyond saturated!!!
We are bombarded with people telling us 'what the trends are', 'what to wear..', 'how to wear it', 'dress it up', 'dress it down', 'suits all shapes', 'great for weddings', 'race days', 'communions', 'confirmations', 'RED CARPETS'... Shall I go on? It's no wonder people are confused!
I've never told anyone what to wear in my life!Q: You work across the spectrum on producing shows for high end labels to high street brands. Would you agree that ‘fast fashion’, despite its negative connotations, does serve a purpose in making fashion that little bit more accessible to all?
A: Yes of course it does. It gives people a huge choice at very reasonable prices. Mind you 'fast fashion' is generally for the younger customer.
I admire Debenham's for bringing their crew of designers into the department store... Betty Jackson , Ben Di Lisi , Matthew Williamson etc... they provide some very nice wearable clothes. (pic: 'Clowning Around' for IMAGE 2010)
Q: Having myself spent much time observing the mayham backstage at fashion shows, I can only presume that producing some of the countries biggest shows must be very exciting but rather high pressure and most definitely manic. Would I be correct?
Manic? Not on my watch! But when the actual show begins it tends to be very fast paced......But I have to be fiercely organised in the prep hours backstage running up to the show. It's vital that fittings have all been done, shoes taped, clothes steamed etc etc.... and that everyone knows exactly what they are doing in order for it to run smoothly.
It's definitely exciting and exhilarating tho.
Q: What is your favourite moment of a show – is it that opening sequence when the first model steps out onto the catwalk or is it ultimately the final moment when the show has gone off without a hitch and everyone is finished?
A: All of it really! The opening scene is wonderful... the anticipation beforehand.... everyone lined up with great hair & make up... all looking gorgeous. And then our first face steps out to set the mood. I love to get involved with the music and when it's good the models react brilliantly to it .... so backstage we all enjoy the atmosphere... some people even dance! The finale is then the icing on the cake ..... I love the uniformity of it. And seeing them all go out together is quite magical. Afterwards there's a lovely camaraderie amongst everyone backstage.
Q: What are the most common mishaps that go wrong backstage during a show to which generally the audience are totally oblivious?
A: If there's a wardrobe malfunction like zips breaking or buttons falling off or a model getting into the wrong outfit by mistake ... they may miss their slot. But it generally rarely happens.
Q: Has there ever been a time that you thought – this isn’t going to work?
No ....... I'm very decisive and clear headed about what I do.
Q: You get many of the country's most stylish ladies either participating in your shows, or sitting front row! In your own opinon, who in Ireland today wyould you deem as being innately stylish?
I never comment on that...... just like I never tell anyone what to wear! It's all down to personal taste.
Q: How would you describe your own personal style?
Non fashionable! I sort of have a uniform..... Mairead Whisker makes practically all of my clothes and we've developed a look that I'm very happy in, which comprises of tunics, cropped trousers and boots. All that changes really are the fabrics - and it's the same for day, evening, weddings, races, communions, confirmations and even red carpets!!
Q: Growing up, who would have been your style inspirations?
A: Diane Keaton as Annie Hall, Siobhan in Bananrama!, and the editorial work of Grace Coddington and Debbie Mason
Q: Finally, as you continue to style the country’s biggest shows, is there any designer or brand that you would simply love to work with?
A: It would be my fantasy to work on a show with designer Dries Van Noten, style for Anthropologie, do a magazine spread with models Amber Valetta and Shalom Harlow, shoot with photographer Peter Lindbergh and assist on an editorial with Grace Coddington for American Vogue.
Below: Yasmin Le Bon for Image April 2011
Your Comments
- Posted by Ellen on 1 June 2011 at 12:19...
- Excellent interview. I really love her styling and plan on doing a shoot with a model using her as my inspiration ;-)
- Posted by Liz on 1 June 2011 at 12:43...
- Thanks Ellen, she's fab isnt she? Really loved getting the chance to feature her on site. Ed :)
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